Things to Do in Chur

Things to Do in Chur

Bündner Kunstmuseum

Collections at Graubünden's art museum, the Bündner Kunstmuseum, include works by well-known artists who lived or worked in the canton, including Angelika Kauffmann, Giovanni Segantini, Giovanni and Alberto Giacometti, and Ernst Kirchner. The building itself is a majestic neoclassical structure erected in 1875 as a private residence.

Hof-Torturm (Citadel Gate Tower)

Opposite the Rätisches Museum, a stone archway under the Hof-Torturm leads into the court of the strong bishop-princes of Chur, once hosts to Holy Roman emperors passing through on their way to Italy or Germany—sometimes with whole armies in tow. The bishops were repaid for their hospitality by imperial donations to the people. The thick fortifications of the residence reflect the disputed powers of the bishops; by the 15th century irate inhabitants who repeatedly rebelled were rebuffed and punished with excommunication. By 1526 the Reformation had broken the domination of the Church, although the city remains a Catholic bishopric today. The Hofkellerei Stübli is now at the base of the tower. Head up to the second floor and you can have a drink in the paneled room, dating from 1522, once used for church meetings.

Kathedrale St. Maria Himmelfahrt (Cathedral of the Assumption)

The Kathedrale St. Maria Himmelfahrt was built between 1151 and 1272, drawing on stylistic influences from all across Europe. The structure on this site in prehistoric times was subsequently supplanted by a Roman castle, a bishop's house in the 5th century, and a Carolingian cathedral in the 8th century. The capitals of the columns are carved with fantastical beasts; at their bases are clustered less threatening animals, such as sheep and marmots. In the choir is a magnificent 15th-century altar of gilded wood featuring nearly 150 carved figures. This late-15th century work comes from the workshop of Jakob Russ in Ravensburg, Germany.

Kirche St. Martin (St. Martin's Church)

The Kirche St. Martin was built in 1491 after a fire destroyed the original dating from the 8th century. Since 1526 it has been Protestant. On your right as you enter are three stained-glass windows created in 1919 by Augusto Giacometti, the father of the Graubünden sculptor Alberto Giacometti. The steeple dates from 1917; with permission from the sacristan, you can climb to the top to see the bells. Of note, too, is the 1716 fountain beside the church, whose basin features the signs of the zodiac (with the exception of the figure on top, it is the original work).

Obere Gasse

Obere Gasse, once the main street through Chur and a major route between Germany and Italy, is now lined with small shops and cafés. At the end stands the 16th-century Obertor (Upper Gate), guarding the bridge across the Plessur River.

Rathaus (Town Hall)

 
The Rathaus originated as two structures in 1464, which were connected in 1540. At ground level, under the arches, is the old marketplace. In the open hall on the second floor is a model of the Old Town, which can help you plan a tour of the city. The Grosser Ratsaal (Council Chamber) has a timber ceiling dating from 1493; the Bürgerratskammer (Citizens' Council Chamber) has wall panels from the Renaissance. Both chambers have old ceramic stoves, the one in the Ratsaal depicting the various deadly sins, the group of human behaviors Christian theology warns against. Embedded in the wall beside the door opening onto Reichsgasse is a rod of iron about a foot long—the standard measure of a foot or shoe before the metric system was introduced. Although both chambers are generally closed to the public, very small groups can contact the tourist office to arrange a visit.

Rätisches Museum

 

The Rätisches Museum provides a thorough, evocative overview of the canton's development. Displayed in a 1675 mansion, the collection includes not only furnishings and goods from that period, but also archaeological finds from the region, both Roman and prehistoric. There are also exhibitions of special interest on display most of the time.

Via Mala

 

Heading south toward the San Bernardino pass on the A13, turn off at Thusis and follow the sign for the Via Mala (the "bad road"), which was used by the Romans and traders over centuries. It runs about 6 km (3½ mi) alongside the narrow Hinterrhein gorge. Shortly after the start of the gorge, you can climb down 321 steps (for a fee of 5 SF) to view the river, rock formations, a mid-18th-century bridge, and old road itself. Continue to Zillis to see the church's renowned 12th-century painted wood ceiling, whose 153 panels mostly depict stories from the Bible. It is one of the world's oldest original artistic works from the Romanesque era.